Thierry HERMES 蒂埃利?爱马仕
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　　爱马仕(Hermès)是世界著名的奢侈品品牌，1837年由Thierry Hermès创立于法国巴黎，早年以制造高级马具起家，迄今已有170多年的悠久历史。爱马仕是一家忠于传统手工艺，不断追求创新的国际化企业，截至2014年已拥有箱包、丝巾领带、男、女装和生活艺术品等十七类产品系列。　　爱马仕的总店位于法国巴黎，分店遍布世界各地，1996年在北京开了中国第一家Hermes专卖店，“爱马仕”为大中华区统一中文译名。爱马仕一直秉承着超凡卓越、极至绚烂的设计理念，造就优雅之极的传统典范。
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爱马仕品牌动态
Hermès(爱马仕)释出2017早春度假系列LookBook，本季设计师将时装风貌回归最法式情调的剪裁与风格，炉火纯青的皮革处理技术和顶级面料才是重点―奢极自然入简。前一段时间说PETA凭借着公开市场，买下了Prada和爱马仕的股份，而最近爱马仕召开了股东大会，PETA果然非常“践行”了诺言，大闹股东大会。爱马仕家族可能要忙上一阵子了。毕竟对于家族控股操作的庞大产业来说，少了谁，都如同少了重要的武器。最近外媒传来的消息，爱马仕家族有一位成员逝世。如果说早先Prada以及Burberry在香港无限期的打折行为是基于品牌的发展不利，那么爱马仕的打折行为就值得让人深思了。
爱马仕品牌秀场
Hermès(爱马仕)释出2017早春度假系列LookBook，本季设计师将时装风貌回归最法式情调的剪裁与风格，炉火纯青的皮革处理技术和顶级面料才是重点――奢极自然入简。爱马仕Hermes于巴黎的Garde Republicaine(共和国卫队)发布了最新的2016秋冬系列。低调不失精致，优雅不浮华一直是爱马仕的的经典形象，这次同样也体现在女装设计上，塑造出一位雅致摩登的法式女郎!　　没有繁复的印花、夸张的...爱马仕(Hermès)巴黎时装周发布2016春夏系列。此季新品延续了该品牌简约优雅的风格，采用顶级面料，细腻的剪裁工艺，纯色或大色块拼接，没有一丝繁复的线条设计，低调大气的法式优雅淋漓展现。整体 风格兼具了商务、都、休闲度假，结合...Hermès(爱马仕)于巴黎时装周发布2015秋冬系列，本季品牌回归到了注重细节的一面，皮革工艺以最为低调的姿呈现在造型上，黑色、藏蓝与辣椒红的用色处理格外利落考究，标志性的围巾以不同形式呈现其中，是品牌传统文化与现代化奢华潮流完...
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广州紫豪实业有限公司 深圳荣子服饰有限公司From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For other uses, see .
Hermès International S.A., Hermes of Paris, or simply Hermès (French pronunciation: ; ) is a French high fashion luxury goods manufacturer established in 1837, today specializing in leather, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewellery, watches and . Its logo, since the 1950s, is of a
carriage with horse.
The designers throughout the company's history have included , Jacques Delahaye, Catherine de Karolyi, Monsieur Levaillant, Nicole de Vesian, Eric Bergère, Claude Brouet, Tan Giudicelli, Marc Audibet, Mariot Chane, , , Christophe Lemaire, Véronique Nichanian (current menswear designer), Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.
Thierry Hermès, founder of Hermès.
() was born in
(Germany) to a French father and a German mother. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Thierry Hermès first established Hermès as a harness
in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving . He created high-quality wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade, winning several awards including the first prize in its class in 1855 and again in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.
Hermès's son, Charles-?mile Hermès (), took over management from his father and moved the shop in 1880 to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré where it remains to this day. With the help of his sons Adolphe and ?mile-Maurice, Charles-?mile introduced
and started selling his products retail. The company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
After Charles-?mile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and ?mile-Maurice took leadership and renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, ?mile-Maurice began furnishing the
of Russia with saddles. By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, ?mile-Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the
for leather goods and clothing, becoming the first to introduce the device in France. In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, made for . Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, ?mile-Maurice added an accessory collection and a clothing collection. He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René Guerrand and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were introduced after ?mile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. ?mile-Maurice created the handbag collection himself.
Hermès Frères advertisement, 1923
In 1924, Hermès established a presence in the United States and opened two shops in French resorts[]. In 1929, the first women's
apparel collection was previewed in Paris. During the 1930s Hermès introduced some of its most recognized original goods such as the leather Sac à dépêches in 1935 (later renamed the "" after ), and the Hermès carrés (scarves) in 1937.
The Hermès scarves became integrated into . In 1938, the Cha?ne d'ancre bracelet and the riding jacket and outfit joined the classic collection. By this point, the company's designers began to draw inspirations from paintings, books, and objets d'art. The 1930s also witnessed Hermès's entrance into the United States market by offering its products in a Neiman Marcus department store in New Y however, it later withdrew. In 1949, the same year as the launch of the Hermès silk tie, the first perfume, Eau d'Hermès, was produced.
Starting in the mid-1930s, Hermès employed
as the brand's first and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist
(manufactured in
gold or ) and women's
cuff watches (in 18K gold, steel or ). Both models contained dials signed either as "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the
were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership would last until the 1950s.
?mile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a tradition of refined elegance."
Robert Dumas-Hermès (), who succeeded ?mile-Maurice after his death in 1951, closely collaborated with brother-in-law Jean-René Guerrand. Dumas became the first man not directly descended from Hermès père to lead the company because his connection to the family was only through marriage. Thus, he incorporated the Hermès last name into his own, Dumas-Hermès.
The company also acquired its duc-carriage-with-horse logo and signature orange boxes in the early 1950s. Dumas introduced original handbags, jewelry, and accessories and was particularly interested in design possibilities with the silk scarves. Ironically, during the mid-20th century, scarf production diminished. World Tempus, a
dedicated to watchmaking, states: "Brought to life by the magic wand of Annie Beaumel, the windows of the store on Faubourg Saint-Honoré became a theatre of enchantment and [established the store as] a Parisian meeting-place for international celebrities." In 1956, a photo of Grace Kelly, who had become the new Princess of , was shown carrying the Sac à dépêches bag in a photography in . Purportedly, she held it in front of herself to cover up her pregnancy. Thus, the public began calling it the "Kelly" bag. The name was subsequently adopted by Hermès, and the bag became hugely popular.
The perfume business became a subsidiary in 1961, concurrently with the introduction of the Calèche scent, named after a hooded four-wheeled horse carriage, known since the 18th century – the Company's logo since fifties. (In 2004,
became the in-house perfumer or "nose" and created the successful Hermessence line of fragrances as well as others.)
Hermès Store at
in , France.
Despite the company's apparent success in the 1970s, exemplified by multiple shops being established worldwide, Hermès began to fall, compared to competitors. Some industry observers have assigned the cause to Hermès's insistence on the exclusive use of natural materials for its products, unlike other companies that were calling on new man-made materials. During a two-week lapse in orders, the Hermès workrooms were silent. The re-rising of Hermes fragrances endeavors in the marketplace was probably due to the public's increasing paradigm shift of back to things 'natural,' as opposed to artificial, a point that undoubtedly contributed to reestablishing Hermes fragrances as a major player in the fragrances marketplace.
, the son of Robert Dumas-Hermès, became chairman in 1978 and had the firm concentrate on silk and leather goods and ready-to-wear, adding new product groups to those made with its traditional techniques. Unlike his father, Jean-Louis was related to the Hermès maternally. Travelling extensively and marrying Rena Greforiadès, he entered the buyer-training program at , the New York department store. Having joined the family firm in 1964, he was instrumental in turning around its downhill progression.
Dumas brought in designers Eric Bergère and Bernard Sanz to revamp the apparel collection and, in collaboration, added unusual entries. They included the
motorcycle jackets and ostrich-skin jeans, which were dubbed as "a snazzier version of what Hermès has been all along." (Annual sales in 1978, when Jean-Louis became head of the firm, were reported at US$50 million. By 1990, annual sales were reported at US$460 million, mainly due to Dumas's strategy.) In 1979, Jean-Louis launched an advertising campaign featuring a young, denim-clad woman wearing an Hermès scarf. The purpose was to introduce the Hermès brand to a new set of consumers. As one fashion-sector observer noted, "Much of what bears the still-discreet Hermès label changed from the object of an old person's
to the subject of young peoples' dreams." However, Dumas's change-of-image gesture created outrage both within and outside of the firm.
Also in the 1970s, the watch subsidiary, La Montre Hermès, was established in . Then, throughout the 1980s, Dumas strengthened the company's hold on its suppliers, resulting in Hermès's gaining great stakes in prominent French ,
acquiring venerable
manufacturers such as Puiforcat, St. Louis, and Périgord.
From the 1980s, tableware became a strong segment of the firm. And, overall, the collection of Hermès goods expanded in 1990 to include over 30,000 pieces. New materials used in the collection included porcelain and crystal.
Hermès relocated its workshops and design studios to Pantin, just outside Paris. By June 1993 and possibly a grave mistake, Hermès had gone public on the
(stock exchange). At the time, the equity sale generated great excitement. The 425,000 shares floated at FFr 300 (US$55 at the time) were oversubscribed by 34 times. Dumas told
that the equity sale would help lessen family tensions by allowing some members to liquidate their holdings without "squabbling over share valuations among themselves."
To this point in time, the Hermès family was still retaining a strong hold of about 80% in stocks, placing Jean-Louis Dumas and the entire family on the
. Mimi Tompkins of U.S. News & World Report called the company "one of Paris' best guarded jewels."
In the years to follow, Dumas began to decrease Hermès franchises from 250 to 200 and increased company-owned stores from 60 to 100 to better control sales of its products. The plan was to cost about FFr 200 million in the short term but was to increase profits in the long term. Having around FFr 500 million to invest, Hermès pressed ahead, targeting China for company-operated boutiques, finally opening a store in
In 1997, Jean-Louis hired Belgian
to supervise women's ready-to-wear.
By the late 1990s, Hermès continued extensively to diminish the number of
stores, buying them up and opening more company-operated boutiques. The fashion industry was caught off guard in September 1999, when Jean-Louis decided to pay FFr 150 million for a 35% stake in the
fashion house. In the latter part of the 1900s, the company encouraged its clientele to faites nous rêver (make us dream), producing throughout the period artistically atypical orders.
Hermès boutique at The ,
In 2000, the first
footwear store was opened in[] In 2003, iconoclastic
left Hermès, and the highly controversial , as the head designer, debuted his first ready-to-wear collection for fall/winter 2004–05.
After 28 years as head of the firm, Jean-Louis Robert Guillame Frédéric Dumas-Hermès retired from the firm in January 2006. Known for his charm and one of Europe's greatest experts on luxury, he died in 2010 after a long illness. Patrick Thomas, who had joined the company in 1989 and who had worked with Jean-as the co-CEO from 2005, replaced him that month. Thomas became the first non-Hermès to head the company. Jean-Louis's son
is the artistic director.
Hermès, ,
The Hermès Foundation was launched in 2008. It is chaired by Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermes, and directed by Catherine Tsekenis.
The Foundation embodies the will of the group to gather sponsorship activities by engaging in supporting creation and craftsmanship.
In 2010, It launched the Emile Hermès Prize which rewards every two years an innovative project in the field of design. In 2014, three winners shared the first prize chaired by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi: Johan Brunel and Samuel Misslen for their ‘’Ventilated Capsule’’ ; Antoine Lesur and Marc Venot for ‘’Hut’’ and finally Paul Tubiana for ‘’Leon’’. In 2012, the Foundation participated in the ‘’New Settings’’ show for the promotion of the arts. In 2013, the Foundation supported the exhibition of works by young artists shown at the Palace of Tokyo. In January 2014, the Hermès Foundation has pledged support, for a period of three years, to the Cité internationale of .
An Hermès soap bar bearing the logo.
As of 2008, Hermès has 14 product divisions encompassing leather, scarves, ties, men's wear, women's fashion, perfume, watches, stationery, footwear, gloves, enamel, decorative arts, tableware, and jewellery.
Hermès sales are composed of about 30% leather goods, 15% clothes, 12% scarves, and 43% other wares. The company licenses no products and keeps tight control over the design and manufacture of its vast inventory.
The family company is very attached to its old-fashioned business model and rejects mass production, assembly lines, and mechanization. Hermès goods are almost entirely made in France by hand in middle-sized workshops ("Ateliers Hermès") with an emphasis on quality manufacturing. Indeed, Hermès claims most items are fabricated from beginning to end by one person only, which is supposed to be a guarantee of the quality and uniqueness of Hermès products.
In 2012, Hermès retail outlets changed its policy regarding returns and exchanges of products. Consumers may only exchange items within ten days of purchase, and only for another color variant of the original purchase. No other post-purchase exchanges are permitted and refunds are never offered, regardless of the consumer having a receipt.
The scarf or carré was introduced in 1937. The first scarf was a 70 cm x 70 cm print of white-wigged females playing a popular period game, a custom-made accessory named Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches. Hermès oversaw the production of its scarves throughout the entire process, purchasing raw Chinese silk, spinning it into , and weaving it into fabric twice as strong and heavy as most scarves available at the time.
The company's scarf designers spend years creating new print patterns, individually screen-printed. Designers chose from over 70,000 different colors. When scarf production first began, a dedicated scarf factory was established in , F the same year, Hermès celebrated its 100th anniversary.
Contemporary Hermès scarves measure 90 cm × 90 cm, weigh 65 grams and are woven from the silk of 250
. All of the hems are hand-stitched. Scarf motifs are wide-ranging, Two silk-scarf collections per year are released, along with some reprints of older designs and limited editions. And two collections per year are introduced in a /silk blend. Since 1937, Hermès has produced over 2,000 the horse motif is particularly famous and popular. The seen-everywhere "Brides De Gala" version, introduced in 1957, has been produced more than 70,000 times. An Hermès scarf is sold somewhere in the world every 25 by the late 1970s more than 1.1 million scarves had been sold worldwide.
The scarves have been worn by several celebrities such as:
in a portrait for a 1986 British postage stamp.
worn by Princess
in a photograph on the cover of a 1956 issue of Life magazine.
used as a sling by Princess Grace for her broken arm.
employed by actress
scene in the film .
made into pillows or otherwise as framed wall-hangings.
Hermès silk .
Introduced in 1949, men's neckties, in a huge array of motifs over the years from bunnies to confetti, have been made from the same silk material as the scarves and are, likewise, very expensive.
For years, Hermès has partnered with
tribesmen in silver jewelry. The
' traditional motifs are often mirrored in various Hermès products, including scarves.
Hermès is known for its handmade luggage and handbags. One bag might require 18 to 24 hours to produce. The construction of each , for example, requires 18 hours to fully realize. Hermès's leathers come from all over the world. Customers may currently wait from six months to one year for delivery of one of the house signature bags. Incidentally, should Hermès's leather goods require repair, owners can bring an item to any Hermès store, where it will be shipped to the Atelier Hermès in , near Paris, for repair or reconditioning.
Another famous Hermès handbag, the "", was named after English actress
who lives in France. After a chance encounter with Jean-Louis Dumas, she complained that her "Kelly" bag was not practical for everyday use. Consequently, he invited her to France where they co-designed the bag. Birkin has since stopped carrying her namesake bag, saying it contributed to her .[]
Exotic leathers of the bags make them highly valuable and noticeable. e.g. Ostrich Leather
Since 1951, the company has created several scents for both men and women, as well as unisex lines. This is a partial list
Calèche, 1961
Amazone, 1974
Parfum d'Hermès, 1984
24, Faubourg, 1995
Hiris, 1999
Rouge Hermès, 2000
Eau des Merveilles, 2004
Kelly Calèche, 2007
Jour de Hermes
Jour de Hermes Gardenia
Galop D, Hermes (2016)
Bel Ami, 1986
?quipage, 1970
Rocabar, 1998
Terre D'Hermès, 2006
Bel Ami Vetiver
* Equipage Geranium
The Garden Collection
Un Jardin en Méditerranée,
Un Jardin sur le Nil,
Un Jardin après la Mousson
Un Jardin Sur Le Toit
Le Jardin De Monsieur Li
Cologne collection
Eau d,orange verte
Eau de Gentiane Blanche
Eau de Pamplemousee Rose
Eau de Neroli Dore
Eau de Narcisse bleu
Eau de Mandarine Ambree
Eau de Rhubarbe Eclarte
* Eau De Hermes (unisex)
* Voyage De Hermes
Rose Ikebana
Osmanthe Yunnan
Iris Ukiyoé
Vanille Galante
Brin de Réglisse
Vétiver Tonka
Santal Masso?a
Poivre Samarcande
Paprika Brazil
Ambre Narguilé
Epice Marine
Muguel Porcelaine
Belonging to the group is the crystal glass manufacturer Saint-Louis, the oldest crystal company in the world. Since its origin in 1586, Saint-Louis has drawn its inspiration from the great decorative periods of the 19th and 20th century, from Restoration to Modern Style, going through Napoléon III,
– the true essence of its identity. Saint-Louis became one of the Hermès Group Métiers in 1989.
In 2015, Hermès partnered with
to produce the , combining Apple's
with Hermès specially crafted single tour, double tour and cuff watch bands.
In the early 2015, in February, Hermès has announced an increase of its turnover of 9.7 percent, which represents more than 4 billion euros in sales.
This increase is internationally visible: in Asia, excluding Japan, where the turnover grew 7 percent, in America, with 10 percent rise, in Europe where it grew 7 percent growth and generated a good performance in the Group’s stores.
Further information:
At 31 December 2010, the Hermès family collectively owned a 62.79% stake in Hermès International S.A. through a number of individual
the stake entitled the family to 73.96% of voting rights in the company. The luxury goods conglomerate
held 20.21% of shares (amassed in the latter half of 2010) and 13.08% of votes at the same date, with 0.39% of shares held as treasury stock and the remaining 16.61% . Speculation that LVMH will launch a takeover bid for Hermès has been repeatedly denied by its chairman . Some industry insiders are in doubt, such as René Weber, an analyst at 's Bank Vontobel, who has claimed: "Arnault is not afraid of a fight and a lot of his battles have been successful for him and his shareholders. Whether he can eventually succeed with [a takeover of] Hermès is still an open question." Bertrand Puech, who chairs the main Hermès family , has criticised LVMH's acquisition of Hermès shares and called on the company to reduce its stake by half.
(PDF) (in French). Hermès 2011.
Steff Yotka,
March 9, 2015
Nadya Masidlover,
March 9, 2015
. Fashion Model Directory 2008.
. World Tempus 2011.
Martin, Richard (1995). Contemporary fashion. London: St. James Press. p. 750.  .
. History of Fashion 2014.
. Styl.sh 2013.
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on 24 February .
Wilson, Eric. . The New York Times 2010.
Tan, Norman (). . Billionaire.
. Actu.epfl.ch. .
. Connaissance des Arts. .
. Madame.lefigaro.fr (in French).
. Lemonde.fr.
. Cite-tapisserie.fr (in French).
Colino, Nadine (2010). The Hermes Scarf: History & Mystique. Thames & Hudson.  .
14 June 2008 at the .
Gonzalez-Rodriguez, Angela (March 27, 2015). .
Singh, Prachi (July 21, 2015). .
Vidalon, D Wendlandt, Astrid (21 December 2010). .
Bawden, Tom (8 March 2011). .
Andrew, Roberts (10 June 2011). .
Plumb, C Denis, Pascale (30 May 2011). .
"A Boutique Where You Don't Just Buy – You Invest", , October 1974.
Van Dyke, Grace, "Hermès: Old World Luxury in the New World", , July 1994.
Dryansky, G.Y., "Hermès: Quality with a Kick", , April 1986.
Berman, Phyllis, "Mass Production? Yech!", Forbes, 22 September 1986.
"Scarves Everywhere", , 30 January 1989.
Aillaud, Charlotte, "The Hermès Museum: Inspiration for the Celebrated Family Firm",
(U.S.), January 1989.
Tompkins, Mimi, "Sweatshop of the Stars", , 12 February 1990.
Gandee, Charles, "Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès Is Flying High",
(New York), August 1990.
"The Handbags to Have", , 14 April 1991.
"Hermès: Still in the Saddle", , 25 September 1991.
"Hermès of Paris, Inc.", The New York Times, 5 October 1991.
Slesin, Susan, "Ah, the Horse", The New York Times, 21 May 1992.
Ellena, Jean-Claude, Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent, New York: Arcade, 2009.
Burr, Chandler, The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York, New York: Henry Holt, 2007.
Frimes, William, Jean-Louis Dumas, Chief of Hermès, Dies at 72, The New York Times, 3 May 2010.
Colino, Nadine, The Hermès Scarf: History & Mistique, New York: Thames & Hudson, 2010.
Rocca, Federico, Hermès - L'avventura del lusso, Torino, Lindau, 2011
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